Temple, PA 610-939-0333



 

 

 

 
Site Designed/Hosted By:
Kevin Schappell

 

 

 

 

 

Before you start the installation procedure make sure you protect your car's fenders with a soft cotton towel or sheet.  Always take your time and understand each step before you attempt it.   You should also inspect your engine mounts for wear.  Due to the tight clearances in the engine compartment slight rubbing may occur between the strut bar and plenum if you have worn engine mounts.  We also suggest performance engine mounts if you will be launching your car aggressively.  As with any car, we do not recommend slamming the hood, in rare cases this can cause scratches on the strut bar. 

 Click on any picture to see a larger view. 

Tools Required:
10mm Box End Wrench
1/4" Ratchet
1/4" extension and swivel (optional)
3/8" or 1/2" Ratchet
14mm Socket (3/8 or 1/2" Drive)
Torque Wrench
Dremel Tool (optional)
7/16" Socket (1/4" drive)
11/32" Socket (1/4" drive)
Flat Bladed Screwdriver
Step 1:
Disconnect negative battery terminal first (1), then positive terminal (2).  Remove battery tie down (3)  Since you battery is out of the way, now is a good time to change your fuel filter.
Step 2:
Remove the old battery and replace with a battery with maximum dimensions of  6.75"H x 6.813"W x  9.75"L
Step 3:
Remove ECS covers from both sides of car.  Each cover has three 14mm nuts to remove.  Before removing cover mark the two inner tabs with a marker.  The inner tabs are where the strut bar will attach. 
Step 4:
Unplug ECS plug from top of strut.  Use flat bladed screwdriver to gently pry up plug.
Step 5:
Unplug ECS cable from the vehicles wiring harness.  Push small button on plug to release.
Step 6:
Remove plug by prying gently with screwdriver where noted while pulling the plug away from the cover.  Next remove metal tabs by gently prying with a pair of pliers.  Grasp the tab in the pliers and wiggle back and forth to work the tab out from the plastic.  Note:  On some early cars the tabs are molded into the plastic and can not be removed.  See Step 7 for additional instructions.  
Step 7:  (Only for early cars where step 6 failed)
Using a pocket knife, Dremel Tool or other sharp objects, remove about 1/8" of plastic directly above the inner two mounting tabs.  This will give clearance for the strut bar.
Step 8:
On each ECS cover you will have to remove one of the metal tabs which holds the ECS plug.   Remove the tab which faces the inside of the engine compartment when bolted down.  This tab should be one you marked with a marker in step 3.  This will allow clearance for the strut bar.  The best way to remove the tab is to clamp the main mounting tab into a vise and pry the smaller tab back and forth until the metal fatigues.  Clean the edge with a file for a smooth clean look.   
Step 9:
Remove spacer which is taped to battery hold down.  Also remove the adjuster plate from the end of the battery hold down bracket.  The main bracket (pictured) should be attached loosely with the supplied carriage bolts, washers, and flange nuts.  Due to clearance issues, it's a good idea to attach the J-bolt loosely to the middle slotted hole on the end of the battery bracket.  Use the 10mm nut and supplied spacer to hold the J-bolt in place.
Step 10:
If you successfully removed the mounting tabs from the plastic covers you should now place the metal tabs onto the strut studs.  If you could not remove the tabs then place the entire cover onto the studs now.  The strut bar must be installed at an angle with the passenger side going on first.  Once you have the passenger side seated on the studs, lower the driver's side onto the studs.
Step 11:
Replace the 14mm nuts you removed in step 3.  Make sure the strut bar is centered and torque the nuts to 33 ft./lbs.  It is critical that you use a torque wrench.  If the nuts are not tight enough the bar will not seat properly and hood interference will result.
Step 12:
Reattach ECS plugs.  Since you removed the ECS plug mounting tabs you may tie wrap the ECS plug or simply leave it hang.  If you separated the cover from the mounting tabs you should now press the plastic cover back onto the mounting clips.
Step 13:
Check for clearance between strut bar and the hood.  Slowly close the hood and look for possible interference. 
Step 14:
Pull battery against shock tower and finger tighten mounting bolts.  Using a 1/4" ratchet and 7/16" socket or a 7/16" wrench, tighten both bolts.  Do not over-tighten bolts.
Step 15:
Using a 10mm combination wrench tighten the J-bolt to firmly hold down the battery. 
Step 16:
Attach battery hold down side bracket with the supplied washers and flange nuts.  Use a 1/4" ratchet, extension, swivel, and 11/32" socket to tighten nuts.  You can also use an 11/32" wrench if you do not have a swivel attachment.

Step 17:
Reconnect the battery cables.  Attach the positive terminal first, then the negative.  Take a test drive and enjoy !!